The eagerly anticipated butchery Marrow has opened its doors in Devonport. Founder Nick Thomson is championing something that feels refreshingly old-fashioned: knowing where your food comes from, respecting the entire animal, and reconnecting communities with their local butcher. After two decades in the trade, international experience abroad, and the success of his original Ōrewa store, a new pop-up store in Catalina Bay, Hobsonville, and another Marrow store set to open in Birkenhead in the new year, Nick is on a mission to revive the high street butcher for a new generation. Channel Mag’s Liz Cannon chats with Nick about his approach to butchery and what Marrow will offer meat lovers on the Shore.
Channel Mag: The Marrow ethos is much more than a butcher's shop. Tell us more!
Nick Thomson: Marrow has always been about connection. Obviously we sell meat, but that's only part of the story. The idea is to reconnect people with food, the people who produce it, and traditional skills that have gradually disappeared from everyday life. When I was growing up, the local butcher was part of the community. They knew their customers, gave cooking advice, and helped people understand the value of different cuts. Somewhere along the way, we've lost a lot of that. Modern food systems have become incredibly convenient, but they've also created a distance between the consumer and the source. Marrow is my attempt to bring some of that connection back; we work closely with farmers, talk to customers about how to cook, and encourage people to think differently about the food they're buying. If someone walks into one of our stores and leaves feeling more confident, more curious, or more connected to what they're eating, then we've done something worthwhile.
Why is bringing back the old-fashioned high street butcher relevant today?
People are craving authenticity. We spend so much of our lives interacting through screens that when you have a genuine face-to-face conversation with someone who really knows their craft, it feels valuable. The high street butcher wasn't just a place to buy dinner; it was a place where knowledge was shared. You'd learn how to braise a cut, how long to cook something, what was in season, and where it came from. I think we're seeing a shift where customers want that again. They want transparency, quality, and to understand why one product costs more than another. Marrow isn’t designed to be an anonymous retail space; rather, a part of the neighbourhood. Whether that's Ōrewa, Catalina Bay, Devonport or Birkenhead, I want people to feel they can come in, ask questions and have a conversation.
Why is your whole-animal eating philosophy so important?
If we're going to eat animals, we have a responsibility to respect them fully. The reality is that every animal consists of much more than the handful of premium cuts people traditionally ask for. If everyone only wants eye fillet, rib eye or lamb racks, you're left with a huge portion of the animal being underused and undervalued. Previous generations understood this instinctively. Liver, kidneys, hearts, cheeks, necks and shanks weren't strange foods; they were part of normal family meals. Whole-animal eating isn't about being extreme or trying to shock people – it's about restoring balance, valuing the entire animal rather than just the most fashionable or perceived choicest parts. And of course, there's also the sustainability aspect. Using more of the animal reduces waste and supports a more thoughtful food system, and in truth, many of these cuts are incredibly delicious. Some of my favourite dishes come from parts of the animal that many people overlook.
Do you think we've become disconnected from traditional food knowledge?
Absolutely. Talk to somebody's grandparents, and you'll often hear stories about dishes that have disappeared from modern kitchens. Food was less about trends and more about making the most of what was available. We've become accustomed to convenience, and as a result we've lost confidence in the kitchen. Many people feel comfortable cooking the same handful of cuts but become nervous as soon as they're presented with something different. That's one of the reasons education is such an important part of what we do. Once people understand what a cut is, where it comes from and how to cook it, the fear disappears. Food should be an enjoyable discovery – something we're curious about rather than intimidated by.
Your book showcases everything from cheeks and sweetbreads to hearts and marrow. What do these lesser-known cuts have that people are missing?
In one word: character! Many of the cuts people overlook have incredible flavour because they're muscles that have worked harder during the animal's life. They often require a little more patience, but the reward is enormous. A beef cheek that's been slowly braised can be one of the most luxurious things you'll ever eat. Lamb neck, for example, is incredibly rich and satisfying. Heart is lean, nutritious and surprisingly versatile. What excites me is helping people discover something new. Watching someone try a cut for the first time and realise they've been overlooking something amazing is one of the best parts of my job. Many of these cuts are also very accessible from a price perspective, which is increasingly important for families.
How have your travels abroad shaped your approach?
Quite a lot. I've been fortunate to work and spend time in places like East London, Melbourne and Byron Bay. Every place has its own food culture and its own relationship with meat and cooking. What struck me was that some cultures never really lost their connection to whole-animal eating. You'd see families celebrating dishes made from cuts that New Zealanders often ignore. Travelling teaches you that there are countless ways to prepare the same ingredient. It broadens your perspective and stops you from assuming there's only one right way of doing things. At the same time, travelling also made me appreciate New Zealand's food culture. We have world-class farmers, incredible produce and a strong agricultural heritage. There's a lot to celebrate here.
What do you wish more people understood about butchery as a craft?
That it takes time. Great butchery isn't simply breaking down animals and putting products into a display cabinet: it's understanding anatomy, knowing how muscles work, and understanding farming, nutrition, ageing, seasonality and cooking. A skilled butcher can completely transform the eating experience by preparing a cut correctly, advising customers well, and matching people with the right product. There's a perception that butchery is an old trade. They’re right – it is an old trade, but that's also what makes it special. These are skills that have been handed down through generations. The challenge now is ensuring those skills continue to be valued and passed on.
Why do you advocate so strongly for animal welfare?
Because quality starts long before the product arrives in the shop. The welfare of the animal, the way it's raised and handled, and the relationship farmers have with the land all influence the final outcome. We're fortunate in New Zealand to have access to exceptional farmers who genuinely care about what they do. Consumers increasingly want reassurance that animals have been treated with respect and that food is being produced responsibly. For me, those conversations are important. The more people know about where their food comes from, the more informed their decisions become. Marrow's philosophy places animal welfare, the environment and community at the centre of its sourcing approach.
Was there a moment when you realised Marrow's ideas were resonating with people?
Yes! Especially when customers started bringing their friends and family in and sharing their own experiences. You begin by thinking you're creating a store, then you realise you're actually building a community. People become invested in the journey; they share recipes, tell you what they've cooked and get excited about trying something different. When that happens, you know the conversation is much bigger than selling products. People genuinely want to learn more about food and cooking.
Devonport seems like a natural home for Marrow. What appealed to you about this North Shore community?
Devonport has a strong local identity and people who genuinely care about independent businesses. There's a real appreciation for craftsmanship, quality and community. Those values align strongly with what we're trying to do. I don't think people visit a place like Devonport looking for generic experiences. They appreciate businesses that have personality and purpose. That's exciting because it allows us to have deeper conversations. Customers are curious, engaged and interested in where their food comes from. For a business built on relationships, that's a fantastic environment.
Food trends come and go. Do you think the whole-animal movement is here to stay?
I do, because it isn't really a trend. If anything, it's a return to principles that have existed for hundreds of years. Respecting the animal, reducing waste, appreciating traditional skills and understanding food provenance aren't fashionable ideas; they're timeless ones. The language around them might change, and new generations might discover them in different ways, but the fundamentals remain relevant. People are increasingly recognising that good food isn't just about what's on the plate; it's about the story behind it, the people who produced it and the choices made along the way.
What's the most common misconception when folk walk into Marrow for the first time?
Probably that we're only interested in meat! Of course, meat is central to what we do, but we're equally interested in cooking, hospitality, learning and bringing people together. Food is one of the great connectors – some of life's best conversations happen around a table. When customers visit Marrow, we're not just thinking about the ingredient they've purchased; we're thinking about the meal they're going to share with family or friends later that day. That's the bigger picture.
What does success look like for you over the next few years?
Success would be seeing more people reconnect with food in a meaningful way. I'd love to see customers becoming more adventurous, confident, informed, and see traditional cuts becoming normal again with local butcheries thriving as part of their communities. If Marrow helps people ask better questions about where their food comes from, how it's produced and how they cook it, then I'll be happy. At the end of the day, this has never really been about just selling meat. It's about preserving knowledge, celebrating craftsmanship and helping people rediscover the joy of eating well.
Pop in for a chat with Nick – he can't wait to welcome you to Marrow!
Marrow is now open in the old Post Office building, Devonport, and a new branch will open in Birkenhead in early 2027.
